Karajia sarcophagi near Chachapoyas in Peru's north

NORTH PERU ITINERARY: TWO WEEKS FROM TRUJILLO TO CAJAMARCA

Updated

Everyone who visits Peru knows about the Incas. Nobody knows about the civilisations that came before them.

The Moche produced some of the finest pre-Columbian ceramics, depicting reed boats still in use on the same coastline today. The Chimú built the largest adobe city ever constructed in the Americas. The Chachapoyas placed their dead in painted sarcophagi on cliff faces and built a mountain-top city older than Machu Picchu by nine centuries.

The empire everyone comes to see lasted a century. The sites on this route predate it by thousands of years.

This north Peru itinerary runs from the coast to the highlands – Moche and Chimú archaeology around coastal city Trujillo, the Lord of Sipán tombs outside Chiclayo, the cloud forest and ancient sites around Chachapoyas, and the colonial highlands at Cajamarca.

Huaraz, with its glacial lakes and snow-capped peaks, works nicely as an extension from Lima to balance the culture with some outdoor activity.

It’s possible to visit independently with English-speaking local guides. The tourists I met were mostly Peruvian, backpackers, or on private tours. The independent version for moderate adventurers is almost entirely unwritten.

The North Peru circuit

Day 1. Lima.   Huaca Pucllana, Museo Larco.
Day 2–4. Trujillo.   El Brujo, Huaca de la Luna, Huanchaco, Chan Chan.
Day 5-6. Chiclayo. Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum, Huaca Rajada, Tucume.
Day 7-11. Chachapoyas Sonche Canyon, Karajía and Quiocta caves, Gocta Falls, Kuelap, Revash, Museo Leymebamba.
Day 12. Cajamarca. Full day travel via scenic route.
Day 13–14. Cajamarca. Cumbemayo, Ransom Room, Ventanillas de Otuzco.
Day 15. Lima. Stop here or carry on to Huaraz the next day.

To add Huaraz, I recommend 5 days so there is time to acclimatise.
Day 16-20. Huaraz. Llanganuco (3,850m), Laguna Parón (4,200m), Chavín de Huántar (via 4,500m pass), Laguna Churup (4,450m)
Day 21. Lima. Barranco.

Detailed itinerary

Lima: Two days in Peru’s coastal capital
Trujillo and Chiclayo: Five days on Peru’s northern coast
Chachapoyas: Five days in Peru’s cloud forest
Cajamarca: Two days in Peru’s colonial highlands
Huaraz: Five days in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca

Direction of travel
I went north to south, flying to Trujillo on the coast from Lima. This way, the altitude builds gradually to the highlands, and Huaraz at the end. But it can also be rearranged fairly easily.

When to go
May to October works best for the whole route. September and October are the sweet spot for Chachapoyas. Go a bit earlier for Huaraz, early October was cutting it fine.

If you are short on time
Cajamarca can be reduced, the sites are less impressive though the city was pleasant. Chachapoyas is worth the journey out. This is not really a trip to do by halves.

Planning notes

Top EXPERIENCES

Chan Chan, Trujillo
The largest adobe city ever built in the Americas and one of the most undervisited UNESCO sites in South America. The scale of one citadel alone gives a sense of what the full city must have been like.

Huaca de la Luna, Trujillo
Huaca de la Luna has colourful painted reliefs, including the tiers up the pyramid as well as layers underneath. But its museum is where I found pottery depicting the caballitos de totoras, see it here before seeing it in real life at Huanchaco.

Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum, Lambayeque (from Chiclayo)
The Lord of Sipán tombs were discovered completely intact in 1987 and are comparable to Tutankhamun’s for wealth and preservation. Visit the site at Huaca Rajada, then the museum where the artefacts are displayed (different location).

Karajía, Chachapoyas
Six 2.5m tall painted sarcophagi of male and female leaders placed high in a natural cliff recess by a culture that roamed the Amazonian Andes and the valley of the Marañón and Huallaga rivers. This was the photo that caught my eye and put Chachapoyas on my radar. Read about my day out to these cliff tombs.

Kuelap, Chachapoyas
A fortress city at 3,000 metres that predates Machu Picchu by four centuries, without the crowds. There was one other foreign tourist when I visited. A very snazzy cable car built in 2017 now saves a 5-6 hour hike up the mountain. Learn more about the stronghold of the Chachapoya where they resisted three Incan conquests.

Laguna Churup, Huaraz
This glacial lake hike was all the right kinds of challenging and well aligned with moderate adventure. Stunning views including a waterfall and snow-capped peaks. At an elevation that needs acclimatisation. Know what to expect on this hike, plus tips on the infamous chains section from a climber’s perspective.

Top Tips

Start with the Larco Museum in Lima before heading north. Although small, it’s very well curated. It gives you a timeline of all the ancient cultures in Peru, and their differences, and is well worth it for the context. They also have an unusual erotic ceramics gallery… do with that what you wish.

Many sites in Peru are closed on Mondays. Plan accordingly!

Practicalities

Bring cash for taxis and small restaurants. ATMs are available in the cities but smaller towns and remote sites run on cash.

The currency is Soles. Bring some USD to exchange there. I got great rates at a place off Plaza de Armas in Trujillo that the hotel directed me to.

A little Spanish and Google Translate gets you further than you’d expect. Know your numbers before you go and be ready to negotiate taxi fares in Spanish.

Uber works in Lima, Trujillo, Chiclayo, and Cajamarca, otherwise it’s taxis and colectivos. There may be a wait to get an Uber so if in a rush flag down a taxi.

Where to stay

Nhow Lima, Lima. In late September 2025 the hotel was so new the pool hadn’t opened, which was sad as the mosaic floor was what caught my eye. A Peruvian-designed lifestyle hotel with nods to the ancient cultures, and the most spectacular breakfast buffet, you won’t regret staying here.

Hotel Costa del Sol Trujillo Centro, Trujillo. While not a fan of chains, this was a well-run hotel located by the lovely Plaza de Armas, with very helpful staff who were able to organise taxis to take me around.

Gocta Andes Lodge, Cocachimba. Two pools overlooking the falls, an on-site restaurant, and alpacas and hummingbirds in the garden. I stayed here to hike the Gocta Falls independently, but they also offer tours to all the major sites. I visited Kuélap from here.

Hotel Dordéan Casona Boutique, Chachapoyas. A small independent hotel on Chachapoyas’ most beautiful street off the main square, with helpful staff. Choose a balcony room. I stayed here while in the city.

Kentitambo, Leymebamba. A small lodge set in lush gardens with hummingbirds, just opposite the mummy museum. I stayed here and visited Revash on the way down.

Getting there and around

Into Peru: Fly into Lima. LATAM, Iberia, and Avianca via Bogotá cover the London route.

Lima to Trujillo: Overnight bus, around eight hours, or domestic flight one hour.

Trujillo to Chiclayo: Bus, roughly four hours, multiple times daily.

Chiclayo to Chachapoyas: Overnight bus departing around 2030h, allow 10h. I arrived 0730h.

Chachapoyas to Cajamarca: Private transfer via Leymebamba and Celendín. Buses are available but I recommend a private car in daylight for peace of mind.

Cajamarca to Huaraz via Lima: Fly from Cajamarca to Lima, one night transit, then bus or flight to Huaraz.

Huaraz to Lima: Bus at eight hours or domestic flight.

Travel insurance: Non-negotiable on a route that includes 4,450 metres of altitude, remote cloud forest, and mountain roads.

More from my North Peru Travels

Travel to Trujillo and Chiclayo from Lima.

From Chiclayo, travel onwards for 5 days in Chachapoyas.

From Cajamarca, travel onwards for 5 days in Huaraz.

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