Laguna Churup: A Guide For Independent Hikers from Huaraz
While Laguna 69 is Huaraz’s day hike that steals the limelight, the Laguna Churup hike is a hidden gem well worth the small effort. Less than an hour from the city, it offers a massive alpine payoff without the three-hour bus ride or the trail-clogging crowds. For everyone that’s heard of it, the talking point is the chains section, a near-vertical scramble up a granite wall by a powerful waterfall. While the sight of them can be intimidating, they add a layer of adventure that sets this hike apart from a standard steep hike. They are very doable, and my tips should help you navigate them with less stress. At 4,450 metres, the only sounds you hear are the wind and the water, and the serenity of the sapphire lake under Nevado Churup presents a suitable reward for your courage.
Practical essentials
When to go: May to September is the dry season and the reliable window. I was there early October and had cloud cover with only brief moments where the peak was clear. A few weeks earlier would likely have been better. Outside the dry season the chains get slippery and sections of trail can run with water.
How long: Laguna Churup is a 8km return hike from the Pitec trailhead, with around 600 metres of elevation gain. I took 2.5 hours to reach the lake via the chains, spent an hour including lunch and the mirador, and 1.5 hours back down the other way — five hours in total. I am experienced but not that fit and didn’t train for any high-altitude hiking. I took my time on the stairs. Faster hikers will do it in less.
Altitude: Huaraz is at 3,050 metres, the trailhead at 3,840m, and Laguna Churup at 4,450 metres. Do not attempt this as your first day in Huaraz. On the day I did it, two people I met had not acclimatised properly. They were experienced hikers, but one had not taken altitude medication and was blacking out along the trail, luckily they made it back without accidents. The medication needs to be started 24 hours before.
Non-negotiable kit: Water and snacks, nowhere to buy onsite when I was there. Layers, especially wind and waterproofs. MAPS.ME for offline hiking maps.
Huascarán National Park fee: Laguna Churup is in the park. I paid at the trailhead where staff had set up a small booth. Otherwise payable at the ticket hut on the trail. Multi-day tickets available. Bring cash.
The Laguna Churup trail
The colectivo drops you at the Pitec trailhead, clearly signed. The hike to Laguna Churup is well-marked throughout and easy to follow without a guide.
The first section is a long climb on never-ending stone steps, fully exposed to wind, with views building around you as you gain height. I took close to an hour on the stairs. The altitude and exposure make it sensible to take your time and pace yourself.
There are two open-sided huts along the way to rest and admire the view. There’s one last bench at the ticket hut at the top of the stairs for another sneaky break. Once through the stairs and onto the valley wall path, you get partial shelter and the gradient becomes more manageable.
The campsite a little further on is another natural rest point, you’ll be able to see people up on the wall by the waterfall that drains the lake. This is the main chains section.
The chains of Laguna Churup
When researching the Laguna Churup hike you’ll probably see mention of the lore of the chains section. There are two. The first is short and unavoidable for everyone. The second is the main one, reached after a fork in the trail.
The fork is signed. Right takes you up through the full chain section alongside the waterfall, which is steeper and more direct to the lake. Left follows the longer mirador path, less steep, and goes up before bringing you down to the lake without going through the main chains.
I went up the chains and returned via the mirador, which is the direction I would recommend if you’re considering the loop. It’s easier to go up the chains than down (you can see where you’re putting your feet), and the full loop gives you different views.
The metal chains are encased in rubber hose, which makes them easy to grip. Even with some experience, I waited for 2 hikers to catch up to me to ascend together, just in case. As a solo hiker I didn’t want to take unnecessary risks.
After the main chain section there’s a small bridge to skip over a stream feeding the falls, then a short scramble with hands and feet over rock. It’s not hard, take it slow.
Tips from a rockclimber
I’m an indoor leisure climber, not a beginner but not expert (at my peak ~AUS 18/US 5.10a/FR 6a if that means anything to you), but technique remains even if you’re out of practice (like riding a bike).
When faced with a cliff the instinct is going to be to hang on to the chains for dear life. Don’t. I actually climbed without the chains until I ran out of holds, because having a fixed hand hold is more stable than a swinging chain. This is doable, trust me. Take your time and stay calm.
Use your legs, not your arms. Your legs are stronger, you walk around on them all day. Find a foothold, put your weight onto it, and stand up. Use the chains for balance, not for hauling yourself up.
Look up before you move. Before taking a hand or foot off the rock, look up and find your next hold. Starting to move before you know where you are going next is how people get stuck.
Watch your footwork. Use your toes or the ball of your foot, not the middle of your sole or your heel. Look for a secure, flat foothold. You’ll spot where they’re worn because everyone else has used them.
Where there are no footholds, use the friction of your grippy soles against the rock, chains for balance, and look for footholds higher up to aim for. If I recall there may be one or two steps required on smoother rock, just walk it up to the next foothold and get yourself on it.
Keep your hips close to the wall. It lowers your centre of gravity and stops you swinging away from the wall. if you do pilates or yoga, it’s the same as engaging your core.
I see it all the time climbing where top-heavy individuals think they can easily arm-power up a wall. They’re spent long before I am. Technique before muscle. Try not to ascend the chains over-relying on your arms, or you’ll tire quickly which is not what you want when the air is thin!
Laguna Churup
The lake sits in a rock bowl below a glacier, intensely blue, with Nevado Churup rising to 5,495m directly above. I had cloud cover for most of my time there with brief windows where the peak came clear.
The lakeshore is large rocks rather than a path, and there’s a lot to explore. Different angles from around the shore are worth the time if you have it. I had an hour including lunch and a walk up to the mirador, as I was worried about making it back for the colectivo. I’d have liked to stay longer, it was very peaceful even with about 25 people spread across different parts of the shoreline.
On the return via the mirador loop the path is signed, go up to it for more views before descending back towards the fork. The descent will be faster, and you can celebrate your completion of the Laguna Churup hike from the bottom while waiting for the colectivo to fill up!
Onwards to Laguna Churupita
Laguna Churupita sits 1.2km beyond Churup at 4,584m, roughly an extra hour each way. I did not attempt it as I was not confident I had enough time to get back to the colectivo. Faster hikers on the same day did. If you are moving well and arrive at Churup with time in hand, it is a viable extension.
Honest assessment
Laguna Churup is a great hike to end a Huaraz stay on. The chain sections are not technically demanding but they’re easier if you’re calm and have some technique. The altitude makes everything harder than it looks on paper, so go easy. By day five, when your body has adjusted and you have easier routes behind you, it is a very good day out.
The views are stunning throughout and the air though thin, is so clean. The Cordillera Blanca is visible from the first section of stairs and stays with you all the way to the lake. There is enough space around the shore to find your own spot on the rocks. Quiet enough to enjoy, but busy enough that you are not going to suffer alone on the chain section if you need help, which is a reasonable balance for a solo hiker.
No guide or tour is needed. The colectivo system is very easy to navigate. What Laguna Churup requires is timing, dry season, proper acclimatisation, and an early start. This checked all the boxes for a moderate adventurer, and I thoroughly enjoyed my experience independently hiking it.
What to bring
Water and snacks: There were no vendors at the trailhead in October, possibly because it was end of season, but you don’t want to risk it. I forgot to refill my bottle and had to ration my 500ml, don’t be like me. Bring at least 1.5 litres. Snack along the way to keep your energy up, fruit, nuts, bars, sweets.
Layers: It is cool at altitude even in the dry season. I was in two to three layers for most of the day.
Hiking shoes: The path is rocky, if you have weak ankles an ankle-high boot will protect you, otherwise walking shoes work if you are confident. Thick socks pad your toes from downhill sections. I usually double sock (toe sock liner, thicker merino outer) and successfully avoid blisters.
Dry bags: Great for keeping electronics dry if it rains. I colour code mine, a small one for valuables, medium for food, large for spare layers. Ziploc bags work too.
Map: MAPS.ME has great offline maps. Download before you go and save waypoints. Signal is unreliable and GPS confirmation is useful on the less obvious sections above the chains.
First Aid: Mini first aid kit and emergency blanket (small and light to bring but if you ever need it, you’ll be grateful you have it)
Getting there and around
Into Huaraz: Bus from Lima (eight hours semi-cama), or domestic flight.
Getting around: Colectivos for Pitec and Laguna Churup leave from Avenida Agustín Gamarra close to Avenida Antonio Raymondi in Huaraz. You buy your ticket in a small shop here. Hold on to it as they check it for the return. Colectivos leave when full rather. First departures are around 7am; arriving by 7am in high season is sensible. The ride takes around 45 minutes.
The driver will give you a return time when you board, if not, ask! As tickets are issued, drivers count the passengers coming back. If you lose the ticket you’re going to have to talk your way back on (saw this happen to someone, I don’t know if they had to pay again but they were allowed on eventually).
The return colectivos fill on a first-come basis, so you may not be on the same vehicle you arrived on. I was concerned about being on time as a once-fit-but-now-out-of-shape middle-aged punter, but I made it for the first colectivo departing.
If you miss all the colectivos, there is a one-hour walk down to the village of Llupa, where you can pick up a more frequent colectivo back to Huaraz.
Into Huaraz: Bus from Lima (eight hours semi-cama), or domestic flight.
Travel insurance: Non-negotiable on a circuit that includes 4,500-metre altitude and remote cloud forest hiking.
Flights to Peru: British Airways / LATAM to Lima
Where to stay
San Sebastian Hotel Boutique, Huaraz. A quiet retreat with neo-colonial Andean architecture that feels like an old hacienda. The central courtyard garden and mountain-view terraces make it a calm oasis in a quiet part of the city. A bit of construction during my stay obscured the view.
Maimara Hotel, Huaraz. A family-run boutique lodge crafted from wood with a mountain vibe. Its breakfast room on the top floor offers uninterrupted views of the snowy peaks. It takes 20 minutes for water to heat up for a shower. Service is warm and personal; the owner’s son was happy to drive me to the colectivo station. A bit further from the city centre.
Hotel Asociado Casa Andina, Huaraz. I tried to avoid the chains, but if I go back I’ll try this hotel, a high-quality base with traditional Andean decor near the heart of town. More professional service might assist with securing an English-speaking guide.
More from my North Peru travels
See how Laguna Churup fits into my 5 day Huaraz itinerary.
Travel to Huaraz after 2 days in Cajamarca.
From Huaraz, travel onwards to Lima.
See how Huaraz fits into my 2 week North Peru itinerary.
