Caballitos de Totora: following 3,000 years of living history from Huaca de la Luna to Huanchaco
The caballitos de totora have been in continuous use on the north Peru coastline for 3,000 years. The Moche were depicting these traditional reed fishing boats in pottery centuries before the Incas arrived, and local fishermen are still launching them from the beach at Huanchaco today. Follow the thread of living history, from Huaca de la Luna’s site museum to examine some of these ceramic pieces, to Huanchaco fifteen minutes away for the boats in real life. While there, try the ceviche that is thought to originate from that same culture along the coast.
Planning Tips
When to go: Year-round. The northern coast is dry by Peruvian standards and Huanchaco is accessible in any season.
How long: A half day at Huaca de la Luna, then on to Huanchaco for lunch and the boats. Works as a single day out from Trujillo.
Iconography of the Caballitos de Totora
If you’ve done the Larco Museum in Lima at the start of your trip as recommended, you will have a grounding in Moche culture. What the Larco does not have (or at least not displayed), despite my searching high and low, including the storage rooms, is the caballitos de totoras iconography.
For that, head to Huaca de la Luna in Trujillo, and do not miss the site museum beside the pyramid. It is here that I found examples of the Moche pottery depicting the fishing boats exactly as they still look, and are used, today.
Caballitos de Totora in Real Life
From the museum, Huanchaco is an hour’s drive (roadworks into town slow traffic) on the opposite city of Trujillo.
The caballitos are made from totora reeds, an aquatic plant that grows in coastal wetlands like the Huanchaco Lagoon. The name means little reed horse, from the way fishermen straddle the boat to paddle out. They were originally entirely reed but newer versions have incorporated styrofoam and plastic bottles for buoyancy.
The boats in the Moche ceramics and the boats on the beach at Playa Varadero are separated by 3,000 years of incremental adjustment and very little else. Their cultural significance runs through both the Moche and the Chimú civilizations that succeeded them along this coast. Peru added the caballitos to the National Cultural Heritage register in 2016..
The beach itself is not going to win any cleanliness awards, but the chance to see living history is worth it. Local fishermen will take tourists out on the water, but be prepared to get very wet.
The Origin of Ceviche
The Moche are thought to have invented ceviche, with evidence pointing to them marinating fish with local fruits such as tumbo, a type of passion fruit. Tucking in to ceviche on the coastline where it originates can’t get any more authentic. Mococho on Jirón Bolognesi is the place to eat it. It’s a small restaurant with a short daily menu built around whatever came in that morning, consistently regarded as among the best seafood in the region. Book ahead for lunch only.
Onwards
It is possible to do Huaca de la Luna, Huanchaco, and Chan Chan in a day, but will be rushed and you will likely not see everything.
Honest assessment
The caballitos de totora are working fishing boats that happen to be 3,000 years old, on a coast that also gave the world ceviche. The sequence from Larco Museum in Lima, to the site museum at Huaca de la Luna, then on to Huanchaco, is what I’ve put together to follow the thread of living history. This is a fascinating day out that is worth taking your time to absorb.
Where to stay
Hotel Costa del Sol Trujillo Centro, Trujillo. While not a fan of chains, this was a well-run hotel located by the lovely Plaza de Armas, with very helpful staff who were able to organise taxis to take me around.
Tierra Viva Trujillo, Trujillo. My backup option, this is a newer boutique chain 20 minutes’ walk from Plaza de Armas.
Getting there and around
Into Trujillo: Frequent buses from Lima and short domestic flights also available.
Getting around: Huaca de la Luna is a short taxi ride or Uber southeast of Trujillo. Huanchaco is fifteen minutes northwest, on the same coastal road as Chan Chan.
Travel insurance: Non-negotiable on a circuit that includes 3,000-metre altitude and remote cloud forest hiking.
Flights to Peru: British Airways / LATAM to Lima
More from my North Peru Travels
See how the caballitos de totora fit into my 5 day Trujillo and Chiclayo itinerary.
Travel to Trujillo and Chiclayo from Lima.
From Trujillo and Chiclayo, travel onwards for 5 days in Chachapoyas.
See how Trujillo and Chiclayo fit into my 2 week North Peru itinerary.
